You would think that the man who runs one of the best Italian restaurants in Mumbai always wanted to be a chef. The truth is quite to the contrary. Sanjay Kotian, the chef and owner of the Italian chain of restaurants called Mia Cucina, is an accidental chef. It was actually a part-time job with an Italian catering firm while studying for a degree in Houston that got him interested in food. A self-taught restaurateur, Kotian understands that it’s not enough for him to love his own food – everyone else has to love it too. The amazing chef who lives and breathes phenomenal food shares his journey in his own words.
It was while I was studying in Houston, US, that I took up a part time job as a helper with a catering company. That’s when I realised I wanted to become a chef. Working with an Italian chef on the job, I learnt everything, right from learning the basics of food to managing and operating a kitchen. I rose from being a Trainee to a Trainee Chef and from a TDP and Executive Chef to a Managing Partner. The nine years I spent in the US proved to be a stepping stone for my career in India as a restaurateur. I don’t have any formal training in food and hospitality. I did want to take up a course while I was in the US but I couldn’t afford it. Also, I believe that the best training happens on the job. I am completely self-taught.
I returned to India at a time when the restaurant business in the country was at a very nascent stage. Everything was “multi-cuisine, Indian conti style.” Very basic. After working for Blue Water Hospitality, which owned Seijo & The Soul Dish in Mumbai, I was ready to launch my own restaurant in the city. There wasn’t any stand-alone, specialised Italian restaurant in Mumbai that time other than Don Giovanni. You had to pay a lot for an Italian meal which was not quite worth the money. Mia Cucina was thus born in 2006 in Mumbai.
It took Rs 80 lakh and six months to set up the first Mia Cucina in Bandra. Translated in English, Mia Cucina means “My Kitchen.” Some of the initial challenges in setting up Mia Cucina were the design of the restaurant, implementing that design, dealing with contractors and handling the timelines.
I don’t consider Mia Cucina as a fine dine restaurant but a casual dining one. Our guests include HNIs, expats, NRIs, celebrities, young executives and students. Some of our most popular items are Fig & Feta salad, Bruschetta Olivata, Bombil Fritto, Pepperoni Pizza, Pizza Quattro Formaggi, Pappardelle al Pollo, Tagliatelle al Mascarpone, Rawas alla Griglia, Piccata di Pollo, Decadence cake, White cheesecake, Tiramisu and Panna Cotta.
After three years we launched our second outlet in Andheri. The response to this one has been lukewarm and as a result it hasn’t met its targets. I have always known that my product is for a niche market. It’s not for the masses. It’s a very authentic Italian experience. The Andheri outlet has taught me to be more cautious. We don’t do Indianised Italian food, so that leaves us a very limited room to grow. But I got lucky with my third outlet in Powai.
I learnt quite a few things from my initial two outlets. We never had a bar at the Andheri outlet. We tried to build a makeshift bar later, but it never worked. So our third outlet has a bar which is part of the concept. We learnt that just as good food is essential to get people in, we also need to work on quality drinks to keep them coming back.
My culinary journey with Mia Cucina has been great, though there have been many ups and downs. In 2007 when we started out, sourcing was a major hurdle as there were only a few importers in India. Imported ingredients are expensive due to the high import duties. The availability is also erratic. Today there are plenty of importers so it is much easier.
Getting the right kitchen equipment was another major challenge. Apart from the good-quality real estate and its prices, regulations still remain the toughest part of the restaurant business in India. There is also a huge shortage of knowledgeable staff and the disparity between the staff and the customer is massive.
